THE CUTS
THE FABRICS

Nep
Nep refers to small, irregular knots or bumps in denim fabric that give it a unique, textured appearance. Neps are caused by imperfections in the yarn or by the weaving process.

Slub
Slub refers to the uneven texture created by intentionally twisting thicker yarns into denim fabric.The result is a fabric with raised threads, or "slubs", that give the denim a vintage look.

Dye
The process of adding colour to fibres, yarn, or fabric by dipping it in dyestuffs. For large-scale indigo dyeing, yarns are bundled in ropes or spread out as sheets and run through several dyebaths.

Weft
The weft in jeans is the horizontal yarn that crosses over and under the vertical warp yarn to create a woven fabric. The color of the weft can determine the hue of the fades.

What does "selvedge denim" mean?
Selvedge is the woven edge of shuttle-loomed fabric. Shuttle-woven fabric is softer, and its natural imperfections add character. The selvedge in denim is usually white and often has a coloured yarn in the middle.
THE FADES


One of our favorite aspects of wearing specialty denim is being able to see the fabric fade the more you wear it. How you wear and wash your denim can have particular effects on how they fade. Rarely washing your denim can result in high-contrast fading, where the fades are most apparent in areas of stress or wear (crotch, knees, etc.). Washing your denim on a more regular basis can result in more even fades.
THE BRANDS
ONI DENIM
A legendary yet shrouded in mystery brand in the denim game, ONI Denim is recognized as one of the most prestigious denim labels. With their production all done on a single vintage shuttle loom- ONI Denim produces some of the most flawless, slubbiest, and finest denim. A staple standout jean that will last you for many years- if you are lucky enough to get your hands on a pair as ONI Denim is only produced on a very small scale.
SUGAR CANE
SugarCane Jeans specializes in authentic Japanese denim made from sugar cane fibers, blending vintage aesthetics with meticulous craftsmanship. Gaining global recognition, the brand uses the term "dungarees" to highlight its heritage. Each pair features unique selvage denim woven on rare shuttle looms, dyed with 100% pure indigo, and constructed with original components. With over 20 years of research into vintage reproduction, SugarCane is the ultimate choice for true enthusiasts seeking genuine craftsmanship.
SAMURAI
Founded in Osaka by Toru Nogami in 1997, Samurai Jeans has become iconic within Japanese denim culture. Drawing inspiration from the Samurai of the Sengoku era, the brand represents Japanese heritage through meticulous craftsmanship, high-quality materials, and distinctive designs.
STUDIO D'ARTISAN
Studio D’Artisan, inspired by French workwear and American vintage styles, was the first Japanese brand to reissue vintage jeans in 1979. They focus on "reconstructing" old garments to capture Japan's unique essence. Renowned for their G3 denim, woven on half-century-old Toyoda G3/GL3 looms, the brand produces rugged, character-rich denim that showcases unique irregularities. This labor-intensive process reflects their unwavering commitment to craftsmanship, quality, and integrity.
FULLCOUNT & CO
Founded in 1992, FULLCOUNT is a Japanese denim brand dedicated to reviving the essence of expertly crafted products. The brand’s mission is to produce jeans of exceptional quality, reflecting the belief that denim is more than just clothing; it evolves alongside the wearer. As customers begin to wear their jeans, each piece develops character and tells a unique story through its aging process.
PURE BLUE JAPAN
Since 1997, Pure Blue Japan (Syoaiya) has been crafting some of the finest Japanese selvedge denim using vintage, low-tension wooden shuttle looms, resulting in a unique irregular and slubby texture. This technique enhances the richness of the indigo and its eventual fading, adding depth and character to each piece. We are proud to have partnered with PBJ since we opened our Soho location 17 years ago.
UES
UES is committed to creating premium denim and apparel that emphasizes quality and authenticity. Rooted in Japanese craftsmanship and influenced by vintage Americana, UES merges traditional techniques with modern design to produce timeless pieces that exemplify durability, comfort, and style. Every garment showcases meticulous attention to detail, from selecting the finest materials to ensuring exceptional construction, appealing to those who value craftsmanship and appreciate the rich heritage embedded in each UES product.
Caring for your denim
We recommend always hand-washing your denim with mild detergent and letting them air-dry. How often you wash your jeans is completely up to you, washing them less can result in high contrast fades in areas of wear, while washing them regularly yields more even fades.


Need help finding the right pair of jeans?
We've been in the denim business for almost 2 decades and pride ourselves on having a pair of jeans for everybody. We highly recommend visiting us at one of our locations for a fitting session, but if that is not possible, we have plenty of resources on our website to help you narrow down your choices.
Each of our denim listings contains detailed measurements to help you find the right size. We also provide complimentary hemming on any pair of jeans purchased from our shop.
Click here to view our Measurement Guide
Click here to learn more about Chainstitch Hemming
Still need help? Click here to contact us